A new era at Aurora

Not strictly a newcomer to 2004, but Aurora, which opened five years ago, has a new chef in Allan Pickett and a new sommelier in Loic Maillet, who together have brought fresh excitement to the beauteous railway-hotel dining room, which was one of Sir John Betjeman's favourite public places to dine.

A stylish bar area to one side, a pianist in the hall and more lively illumination have also done their bit. Just as importantly, prices have been ameliorated - there is a very goodvalue £28 three-course lunch.

Should it happen to feature daube of beef, don't on any account order anything different. It brings to life the daube so lyrically described by Virginia Woolf in To The Lighthouse (one of my A-level texts).

Hot foie gras with champagne rhubarb and truffled chicken with salsify and confit garlic were other excellent dishes of a recent meal.