Capital food is no punishment

This review was first published in February 2002

Chinatown looks like fun, but separating the decent restaurants from the purveyors of grease and MSG can cause problems. Capital, which specialises in Shanghai cuisine, tries to signal its difference by spare decor and a ceiling painted an unlikely shade of pink; it's not very restful but the food makes up for that.

Cold starters, a Shanghai speciality, were particularly good although it's best not to ask about the contents: pig's ear has an unusual texture and a smoky, intriguing taste but I enjoyed it more before knowing what it was. Spring rolls are fine if not outstanding, but the dumplings are some of the best I've had, crisp and well-seasoned.

Chicken kung po crackled with water chestnuts and the sweet-sour sauce on my king prawns avoided that ghastly stickiness so common in Chinese sweet-sour, and, in both cases, the ingredients tasted very fresh. We didn't try the whole beggar chicken, baked in mud, but it looked amazing, arriving in a peel-off pod.

The restaurant's voluble maitre d' explained they'd gone exclusively to Burgundy for the wine list, and it included a decently priced Chablis that went beautifully with the food, so no complaints there.

Two courses plus the cold plate combination and wine came to £70 - they should remedy the irritating habit of including service then leaving space on the receipt for a tip, but apart from that, Capital is that prize: a quality Chinatown eaterie.

Capital Shanghai Restaurant
8 Gerrard Street, W1