David Sexton's week in food: from smoked ham hock hash to scraps of cold partridge

1. Smoked ham hock hash with a fried duck egg for brunch on Saturday at the new five-screen Crouch End Picture House, 165 Tottenham Lane, N8. The meat, sourced from neighbouring Muddy Boots, certainly meatier than Bridge of Spies, seen there last week.

2. For supper at home, from Nigel Slater’s fab new book A Year of Good Eating, “Offal made luxurious”, a chicken liver ragout with potatoes and chive oil. So easy, so good.

3. To celebrate six years of the lovely Vietnamese family restaurant Mien Tay being open in Battersea as well as Shoreditch (where I wrote a rave about it in 2008, soon after it first appeared) we tried six new dishes being introduced to the menu soon, including a delicious fried monkfish dish, a clever variation on its ever-perfect squid with garlic.

4. At long last, Cafe Tramp, 361 Green Lanes, so lovingly tended by owner Haldun Ozdemir for the past two years, has opened: amazing salvaged decor, lovely staff, a most ambitious menu — alas, the cooking proved completely inept. Please save your beautiful creation by fixing that, Haldun!

5. After filing my review of Ellory, some scraps of cold partridge on sourdough toast with sliced toms and a hint of Hellmann’s. I recommend it. Churchill’s favourite, a brace of snipe and a pint of port, next?

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