Gastro for the gentiles

Highgate village, for all its upland gentility, has not gone a bundle on the gastropub phenomenon. So the once humble Rose & Crown has stepped into the culinary vacuum.

It's more gastro than pub: despite a bar area and a great pint of Abbot, the restaurant area dominates. But even locals may take fright at some precipitous prices.

Tartare of tuna (£9.95) was rich and interesting. The waiter apologised for the oxymoronic naming of the 'Indonesian rack of Welsh lamb' but its satay veg, embedded in a roasted half-pineapple, almost justified the £21.75 tariff.

Fillet steak was fine but over-embellished, perhaps to justify charging £20. Creme brulee and apple tart were superb, and the Rioja (£18.50) was unimpeachable. Catch one of the weekday set menus (£15.95 for three courses at lunch or before 7.30pm) and you've got a seriously good deal.

But the Rose & Crown isn't special enough yet to justify its a la carte prices. And for £100 plus tip, you don't expect your table to overlook a shelf filled with ashtrays and candles.

Rose & Crown
Highgate High Street, London, N6 5HX