Into the front rank ... from a standing start
The last time the Ledbury had plenty of spare seats available was during the week it opened in 2005.
Restaurateur Nigel Platts Martin is unusual in that he never opens a new resto until he is absolutely ready.
The chef here is Brett Graham, who served time at head office (The Square, page 90), and his food is sophisticated, elegant to look at and well balanced, all of which translates as extremely good.
What is most impressive is the instant maturity achieved here; already the Ledbury seems like a tried and tested, highly polished old-timer.
Starters include a lasagne of rabbit and girolles with a velouté of thyme - a dish that quickly became the critics' favourite; a parsley soup with mousserons, wild wood sorrel and frog leg beignets; or roast scallops with pumpkin purée.
Main courses are equally complex - a roast Dover sole comes with a gratin of macaroni, cockscombs, chicken wings and pine nuts; a fillet of beef is teamed with a red wine sauce and a croustillant of snails, oxtail and celeriac; or perhaps an assiette of lamb with borlotti beans, artichokes and herb oil appeals? The cooking is accomplished, flavours are upfront and textures varied.
The wine list is comprehensive, but the wine service manages the trick of being both informal and knowledgeable.
Puds are seriously ambitious - jasmine tea and milk chocolate Chantilly with hazelnut dacquoise and milk ice cream; a tarte fine of figs with truffle honey ice cream; or raspberry soufflé with mascarpone and lemon verbena.
The Ledbury delivers very good French food in an elegant dining room and at a price that represents good value - even if the bill seems more West End than W11.
The Ledbury
Ledbury Road, London, W11 2AQ
