Les frères Galvin cooking up a storm

Chris Galvin and his brother Jeff get on well together and after parallel careers in some of London's top kitchens, at last they get their own place.

This is a French restaurant, as French as only two Englishmen who genuinely love classic French food can make it.

It's comfortable.

It represents excellent value for money.

The wine list doesn't pillage your plastic.

The menu is short and seasonal.

A great deal of time and effort goes into sourcing fine ingredients.

Galvin burst onto the scene and has been busy from the moment the doors opened.

Keep in mind 'seasonal' and 'classic French' - starters may range from a splendid, almost juicy terrine pressé of pork and foie gras; to a salad of Roquefort, pear and walnut; a beautifully made little Pithiviers of pigeon with a glazed chestnut - very delicious; to an omelette aux cèpes - it's hard to find a good omelette, and harder still to find one as good as this, plenty of mushrooms, well seasoned.

Main courses range from a risotto of courgette and saffron; to wing of skate Grenobloise; and parmentier of oxtail and black pudding - stunning mashed potato with a dark frazzled and sizzled disc of oxtail and b.p. sitting on top.

Gutsy cooking.

The braised pig's trotter is served with the same spud, but is a light and ethereal dish - stuffed with a chicken mousseline and surrounded by small morels.

Puds are hardcore: St Emilion au chocolat comes in a small glass and is impressively rich.

As you would expect, there's a decent cheeseboard.

For people who like food, Galvin 'Bistrot de Luxe' really hits the spot.

Galvin
66 Baker Street, W1