Masala Zone: Reliable dishes for going out or staying in

Owned by the Punjabi-Mathrani family whose standalone Indian restaurants are the estimable Chutney Mary, Veeraswamy and Amaya, their six-strong group (plus an outlet in Selfridge’s food court) to my mind achieves something more difficult. It is a definitely a group, not a chain, palpably apparent in different décor in each outlet celebrating India at play and at prayer and what must be very focused training to produce such informed and committed staff. As a frequent visitor to India — and having been born there — I can vouch for authenticity in the food, which naturally includes grills, tandoor and curries but also uplifting, diverting street food like pao bhaji, golgappa and dahi puri and thalis big or small, meat or vegetarian, the well-balanced healthy, almost ayurvedic way to approach a meal. At the Covent Garden branch beside the Opera House Rajasthani puppets bobbing across the ceiling are suitably theatrical — and merry company. The group’s home delivery service is also unusually rewarding.