No gift of the Gab
Heddon Street in the sun is a pleasant spot. Tables spill into the street from Momo and Zinc, giving the impression of somewhere a lot further out than off-Regent Street. The newest comer to the area, Gabrielle's, looks the Francophile business with palms, faux-rustic plaster and ooh-la-la awnings. Sadly, the food is utterly diabolical.
The flavour, we gather, is ProvenÃale. Perhaps this explains the sprigs of lavender adorning almost every dish. Only escargots - six weaselly creatures, tasting tinned, plunged into what seemed to be boiling Mazola fragranced with bitter, burned garlic - escaped the floral fate. My red mullet was over-cooked, its yellow broth laced with onion, carrot, fennel and red pepper, tasting of nothing but stock cube.
Fillet managed to be tough and sinewy: quite a feat. Its Roquefort sauce was good, but cheese and cream - what's to cock up? Rack of lamb featured good meat, improperly dealt with: well done with no seductive crispy bits.
More of the lavender appeared to have been added to a diced ratatouille. Brown, slimy pommes dauphinois were simply vile. After this lot, we didn't fancy pudding; we were charged the full £25 a head for three courses. Never again.
Meal for two with wine, water and service cost about £90. 14 Heddon Street W1. Tel: 020 7494 2234. Tube: Oxford Circus
Gabrielles
14 Heddon Street, W1B 4DA
