Spin doctor weaves his magic

This review was published in February 2002

Here is a fine example of the spin doctor's art. When this restaurant first opened, Adam Robinson (proprietor of the Chiswick, Salt House and Bollo House) was consulting for Corney - this role has now been taken on by Philip Owens (his battle honours read Arts Theatre Cafe, L'Arte, ICA).

For the latest incarnation Corney ended up grafting together the name Philip Owens (translates as: respected modern chef with a leaning towards organic) with Dining Rooms (read as: old-established, reliable, hearty and lots of other stuff in keeping with ancient City wine merchant).

A successful name for all concerned you would think. Look around the room, however, and you will see that it isn't really a 'dining room', but more a trendy modern eatery complete with small tables, only moderately comfortable chairs and a force-ten air conditioning system. Look down the menu and you will find that it is not really a dining room menu - 'Is the wild mushroom and watercress soup with goat's cheese, walnut and herb dumplings for you, Mr Pickwick?'

This is grub from Philip Owens - seasonal, from a list of familiar specialist suppliers, well-cooked and 'contemporary British'. Having got over such minor grizzles, the food is good and there are several trad dishes that are well handled, such as brawn with green sauce and sourdough toast - good brawn, if a touch under-seasoned. British antipasti (there's a concept!) brings together excellent Cumbrian smoked meats with celeriac and quail's eggs (billed as pickled but turning out boiled).

Or there's some excellent smoked eel with good crisp bacon and suitably sinus-blasting horseradish. Mains run from hake with cockles to slow-braised shin of veal with Bordeaux and pearl barley, to roast rack of lamb, herb crust, potato gratin and mint sauce. You have to admire a chef who takes so much time and trouble to source top ingredients and is committed enough to change the menu fortnightly to move with the markets.

But even so, the prices are definitely on the high side - hake is plentiful at this time of year and there is little justification for a portion (albeit well-cooked and decent-sized) adding £15 to the bill. Perhaps it is sensible to take refuge in the set menu which offers a much more reasonable two courses for £14 and three for £16. The service is cheerful in a slapdash sort of way.

The wine list reflects the needs of the 12 City wine bars for which it was prepared and seems to have been left behind by the food. This place is a dining room in name only.

Philip Owens Dining Room
Corney and Barrow, 116 St Martin's Lane, WC2