The outlook is sunny

10 April 2012

Perceptive Barnes-ites have been supporting Sonny's since Modern British cuisine was just a twinkle in a telly chef's eye.

The interior of the resto is modern but gratifyingly unthreatening and there is a busy, casual feel about the place.

Sonny's shop next door sells a good many of those little delicacies that you would otherwise have to journey to the West End to secure.

But do not be deceived into thinking that the cooking here is suburban.

The menu changes to reflect the seasons, so you might find starters like velouté of sweet potatoes with goats' cheese mousse; or a pressé of rabbit and baby vegetables with pistachio duxelles; a salad of Bayonne ham and black pudding with potatoes and confit shallots; or pan-fried scallops with oyster beurre blanc.

Main courses may team John Dory with choucroute, carrots and pancetta, or pan-fried calves' liver with creamy polenta.

There is even room for a retro classic like Tournedos Rossini, and something simple but good like shoulder of 'Middle White' pork served with Brussels sprouts and wild mushrooms.

The service is welcoming and the wine list provides some sound bottles at sound prices.

Puddings are comfortable: sorbets, jellies, raspberry brélée, served with biscotti.

There's also a decent set dinner Monday to Thursday.

Sonny's is the kind of restaurant we would all like to have at the end of the road, friendly, good food, comfortable.

Sonny's Food Shop
Church Road, London, SW13 0DQ

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