Veggie heaven

The extraordinary thing about The Gate (which is tucked away behind the Hammersmith Apollo) is that you hardly notice that it's a vegetarian restaurant.

This is enjoyable dining without the meat.

It's not wholefood, it's not even healthy; indeed, it's as rich, colourful, calorific and naughty as anywhere in town.

The clientele is a quiet and appreciative bunch of locals and pilgrims - it's unlikely that anyone could just stumble across this hidden-away, former artists' studio.

The airy décor and the high ceiling give it a serene, lofty feel, which may be The Gate's only nod to veggie solemnities.

The short menu changes regularly, but starters are always well balanced and attractive.

There's usually a tart, like the leek and trompette tart.

Also excellent are the sweetcorn fritters, which are served with a sweet chilli sauce.

Portions are hearty, so it's a good idea to share starters in order to pace yourself and sample all the courses.

The mains are generally well executed.

Butternut, basil and goats' cheese ravioli is pan-fried in sage butter and served with purple sprouting.

Or perhaps there's a chipotle-glazed artichoke - poached in chilli and lime-leaf stock before being filled with avocado and feta cheese.

Puddings are splendid: vanilla crème brélée served with strawberry and rose salsa.

Those without a sweet tooth should go for the cheese plate.

The drinks list is extensive, and the wine section has something for everyone.

Gate Vegetarian Restaurant
Queen Caroline Street, London, W6 9QL