Wine Box: The Organic Revolt
Organic food is healthy, isn't it? Well, up to a point. In the wine world, the word 'organic' creates a problem. The human brain has a built-in barrier when it comes to marrying physical wellbeing with the consumption of bucketloads of wine en route to alcoholic oblivion.
This is why many top-flight winemakers adopt organic practices (which they often find help make better wines), yet steadfastly refuse to seek certification and put the O word on labels. You can see why.
The target market for organic wine is more probably refined sippers of the occasional glass rather than guzzlers. So why risk damaging the volume of sales? In a world that's gone organic crazy, wine is the one product that may not benefit from the revolution. Will we all be drinking organic wines in ten years' time? I think not. Nevertheless, here are four worth trying:
La Nature Organic Argentinian Torrontes 2001 (Asda, £4.49). Torrontes is a wacky aromatic grape with a bouquet not dissimilar to super-strength air fresheners. Yet its perfumed, almost sickly Muscat-style odours give way to a white with terrific freshness, balance and acidity. Very experimental for adventurers in wine.
Domaine de la Grande Bellane, C?tes du Rh?ne Villages 1999 (Sainsbury's, £5.99). Old-style Rh?ne power combines with a touch of New World softness in this stewed-cherry-and-herb-flavoured red. Plenty of fruit, yet baked as dry as a sun-drenched summer's day.
Pinotage, Organic Terroir, Sonop Wine Farm 2001 (Vintage Roots, 0118 976 1999, £6.75). Really concentrated plum, liquorice and spice-flavoured South African red that punches well above its weight.
Valdivieso Malbec Cabernet Organic 2001 (Tesco, £4.99). Lots of ripe bramble and syrup give this Chilean red an unexpected fruity richness - great for a fiver. Healthy and satisfying.
