Why Upper Street is on the up

Back in the Nineties, N1 was the darling of the A-Z. It had a plush new Tube at Angel. It had swanky restaurants with bulging waiting-lists. Most importantly, though, it had residents to die for: Tony, Cherie and a bunch of New Labour luvvies ready to change the world.

Then the Blairs trotted off to Downing Street and New Labour became just another boring government. The razzle dazzle petered out and Islington proceeded to sell its soul. Chain followed chain as Upper Street underwent a reverse facelift. Amid the restaurant faithfuls such as Granita, Le Mercury and Frederick's, the corporates swooped in: La Porcetta, Belgo, Starbucks, Costa Coffee and two - two! - All Bar Ones. Then the Council announced a new shopping centre, opening this summer, with Gap, Oasis, JD Sports, and a nine-screen Warner Brothers cinema. Agh!

But all is not lost. There are signs that the forces of cool are fighting back. You can see them in independent eateries such as Afghan Kitchen on Islington Green, or in bars like The Primos Lounge on Islington Park Street and the new Heavenly Social gastropub on Arlington Square, crammed full of Hoxton types who have ventured up the road for a change of scene. You can sense the new vibe at the bustling Sunday farmer's market in Camden Passage or among the old-school fruit 'n' veg stalls on the revamped Chapel Market. You can even spot Notting Hill die-hards on their way to vintage boutique du jour, Past Caring on Essex Road.

The future looks promising. Plans permitting, the film set of the Rose Theatre from Shakespeare in Love will be sunk into Islington Green - surely set to be London's quirkiest arts venue. The long-term conversion of Arsenal's Art-Deco stadium into flats will send any Gunners fan worth his season ticket into a swoon. Even the new shopping centre will be rescued from all-out naffness by a new incarnation of the Marquee Club. A 21st-century version of the legendary West End music venue ? all granite, chrome and plush on-site restaurant - is set to open its doors this autumn.