Trainers are the new heels

Slick and sporty: (left) Sandro's laidback London look, £369, (centre) Style queen: Phoebe Philo of Céline, and (right) Down to earth: singer Eliza Doolittle
10 April 2012

The devil wears Prada but the people wear plimsolls. At least so says the nameless footwear store on Cheshire Street, off Brick Lane, where the slogan is scrawled in black marker pen above the door. This small operation, run by a former market trader who sells £5 trainers out of a dark doorway, is a London fashion institution - as are the shoes it sells.

While Parisians have perfectly chic ballet pumps ingrained in their style psyche, and the Milanese towering stilettos, Londoners join their American cousins in advocating the sports shoe - be that in the shape of sneaker, trainer or plimsoll.

The capital's long-lasting relationship with casual footwear is one that began on the street.

As a city, we are habitual champions of a dressed-down approach to fashion, so it makes sense that trainers should form the foundation of our wardrobes.

This year, however, the humble sneaker is on the up - in fact, it's giving the colour-block court shoe a run for its money in the race for most lusted-after accessory. No longer just a godsend for sore-footed commuters, or teenagers who seek to outdo each other with the most up-to-date pair of Air Force 1s, trainers have fought their way into luxury fashion territory. And this month they grace the style pages of Vogue.

While some would argue that this shoe's journey to the dizzy heights of high fashion began a few seasons back, when designers Isabel Marant and Jimmy Choo created high-top trainers at high-end prices, trainers have only really found their footing on planet fashion in the past few months - and specifically since the close of the Céline show in Paris. Stepping out to take her bow, designer Phoebe Philo sent fashion editors into a frenzy thanks to the vintage Nike running shoes she'd picked to wear for the occasion.

As a direct result, this season's most intriguing footwear trend was born.

In the months since, running shoes - distinguished by their turned-up toes - have enjoyed something of a renaissance off-track. "Vintage running styles like the Nike Air Max 1 are really popular at Niketown at the moment," says Sarah Mei, a design consultant for NikeiD. "Women want to show their love of sport even if they're away from the gym." Favoured by model Olivia Inge and presenter Fearne Cotton, as well as by East End hipsters, this style of trainer looks best with straight-leg or skinny jeans.

The renewed appreciation of sport-inspired footwear has also ensured high-top trainers remain in favour. Marc Jacobs played with classic trainer styles this season by adding low heels to multicoloured high-tops, while French labels Gérard Darel and Sandro pay homage to a laid-back London look by including sports shoes in their spring collections.

Of course, it's not just the Philo-effect which has spawned this new interest in exercise gear. A certain sporting event due to take place this summer is having an effect too. "For us, the surge in women's trainer sales is so much more than just a fashion thing," says Mei. "London women have a renewed passion for sport which is crossing over into the way they get dressed every day."

The Olympics have a whole lot to answer for.

Twitter:@karendacre

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