The Discerning drinker: Beaujolais
Le Beaujolais Nouveau est arrivé! And who gives a toss? Back in the Eighties, when the "tradition" of releasing the new Beaujolais vintage on the third Thursday of November was invented, wine bars heaved with drinkers trying to get their slice of this thin, astringent action. In 2011, all that looks as silly as Iron Maiden tours, frothy royal weddings and Thatcher veneration...
Yup, it's back to the future in 2011: Beaujolais is (sort of) in again. Fine vintages in 2009 and 2010, plus new interest in the region from serious Burgundy producers, are giving the wines new interest - though granted, very little of it in nouveau.
For a decent Beaujolais, look for wines from the 10 named villages or "crus" (which, er, don't have the word "Beaujolais" on their labels.) And - aside from the first below - stick to 09 and 10.
Domaine Rochette Beaujolais-Villages Nouveau 2011 (Lea and Sandeman, £9.95 or £8.95 as part of a mixed dozen)
First, the exception that proves the rule: a Nouveau from a top producer in the cru village of Regnié - bright, ripe, silky fruit, fresh and very moreish.
Henry Fessy Morgon 2010 (Oddbins, £10)
Morgon is traditionally the fullest-bodied Beaujolais cru. This is fresh and sweet but bigger, richer and more structured than many lesser Burgundies. Fessy's Moulin-a-Vent 2010 (Oddbins, £12), another cru for bigger wines, also has pleasing weight and depth underlying its fruitiness.
Jean-Paul Dubost "Tracot" 2010, Beaujolais-Villages (Berry Brothers,
3 St James St, SW1, or bbr.com, £9.95)
Classic Beaujolais: fresh and fruity, with firm acidity, but extremely quaffable.
Louis Jadot Combe aux Jacques 2010, Beaujolais-Villages (Waitrose, Tesco, from £9.39; £7.49 in Tesco until November 22)
Big Burgundian operator Louis Jadot makes one of the best straight Beaujolais- Villages: bright red fruit, slightly rounded despite its acidity.
Twitter: @hernehillandy
